Spring has already entered their rights. A little more, and the snow melts, and there and the season of kebabs are not far off. Again, endless crawls of a piece of cardboard over the coal, red leaky eyes, saturated beards and mustache! Some lovers find a way out of the situation; Connect fans, hair dryers, and even old vacuum cleaners! This is all, of course, fine, but if you like to fry meat in nature, where there is no electricity, then the coals have to be inflated by our own. Also, not everyone can, by virtue of certain circumstances, will go on a picnic by car, in which there is a capacious battery to which you can climb the appropriate device. Again, you can buy a special device for inflating coal. They are now a huge set, different types and modifications! There are manual devices (you need to rotate the handle, leading to the movement of the propeller), there is electric, on batteries. But you can make this simple device and independently. There is nothing complicated in its design.
Need
- Empty tin can (I took out of paint).
- Motor (from 9 to 12 volts).
- Propeller from the cooler.
- Engraver with cutting disc, grinding stone and drill.
- The tube is metallic, with a diameter of 20 mm, and a length of 7-8 cm.
- The tube is plastic, 7-8 cm long, and a diameter in the thickness of the motor.
- Soldering iron with a solder.
- Second glue.
- Switch.
- Two bolts, under the threads in the top of the motor.
- Pliers.
- Marker.
- Scissors.
- File.
- Stationery knife.
- Screwdriver.
- Battery, for the needs of the motor.
- Paint sprayer (color at your discretion).
Assembling inflating boiler for coal
First you need to prepare and calculate the parameters of the case from tin cans. To do this, it is necessary to estimate an exemplary thickness of the future drum air intake. The thickness of us will come from the largest detail, namely - from the output tube.
At the same time, do not forget about the reserve. Millimeters of 5 on both sides will be enough. We draw a cut slicer with a marker, and cut off the planned piece.
The remnants of tin can not throw out - they will go to the ends of the drum. Cut off the can a piece of tin, fully overlapping the end of the drum, we apply the end, we supply the marker, and cut the circle.
Next, cut out the recess on the pipe corresponding to the bulbs of the Baoca Barabana, and on the side of the drum, the hole in which the fitted pipe will fit. Like this:
Now, on one of the end plates, drill three holes for the engine; One large, for a neck with a shaft, and two smaller sides, for fastening bolts to the engine.
We try the engine to the plate:
Now we will do fit the handle. Mean from the top of the plastic pipe the distance of the motor length, plus the stock, and cut the hole for the switch. We try the switch:
Next, try the engine. If it is small to caliber pipes, then you can make it thicker, by winding the tape.
Now cut the hole for the air intake on the second end plate.
Here I did not calculate the power and turnover of the engine, and made too small holes. I had to cut one large hole in the center.
If your engine has high speed, then the holes can be cut as I initially - patterned. So more beautiful. Highly involuntary engine and that is enough. Now the most interesting occupation; Saving all the details! Rigor, due to its minimum thickness, saves easily and quickly, without preheating. Do not solder, but solid pleasure! With the help of flux and solder, weird sections on metal. We solder the pipe for air outlet.
In the same way, we solder the lower end plate on which the engine will be mounted. Fresh engine.
We wear a propeller on the shaft.
We solder the upper end plate with holes.
Next, we solder the wire switch.
Install the switch to the housing. Now, to one of the contacts of the engine, we solder one wire from the switch, and the second contact of the engine is one free long wire.
We remove the wiring from the bottom of the handle, and the secrets of the handle to the engine and the drum.
Carefully watch the glue not getting inside the engine! It is better to use thick second-hand glue, based on gel. It remains to solder the socket for the power supply plug. We solder the nest to the two-housing segment of the wire.
Cut in the hollow hole in the lid.
We wear a cover on the cable, and solder the cable to the brought contacts.
Watch the polarity so that the propeller spins in the right direction! We glue the cover to the handle.
As a lid, or stubs for handles, you can use any suitable in diameter, circling. It remains to bring the finished product to a decent appearance. We cover all the available holes on the drum, wind the handle of some kind of protection, and the drum.
It remains to experience. Everything works fine!
You can, of course, make an inflatable and more powerful. For example, if you install the engine for twelve volts in it, from the screwdriver. This can be connected to the car battery. But such power, I think, nothing to do - will raise a bunch of ashes, which will settle on the food. I took the engine nine volt, from a broken toy. This is quite enough. The power supply is also self-made, from three batteries 18650, and a protective charging module.
And one more thing - why I used it precisely a tin, not plastic with which it is easier to work. Not every plastic will withstand those temperatures that come from cold coal. Yes, and work with soldering, personally for me, much nicer than with plastic and glue.
Watch the video
Lifehak: How to simply refine the coals without a ignite fluid -