Bill Cunningham: Itangazamakuru ryimyambarire

Anonim

Bill Cunningham ntabwo yari umuhanda cyangwa umufotozi wimyambarire, nkuko bitari Paparazni, ariko - paradoxique, uhujije ku mico myiza mubwoko bwose bwavuzwe haruguru. Amayeri yacyo adasanzwe kandi yitanga atangaje, aragwira na filozofiya yimitungo yoroheje, yihariye, kandi ubuzima bwa Cunningham burashobora gutungura bitarenze ifoto ye.

Ishyaka rya mbere ryimikorere yimyambarire ryumvaga bidasanzwe, mw'itorero, mu ntangiriro ya za 1940. Amayeri yibukije ati: "Sinashoboraga kwibanda ku mirimo y'itorero ryo ku cyumweru, kuko nari nsanzwe ntera ingofero y'abagore. Moldaval, umushinga w'itegeko uzafungura studio ye yo gukora ingofero, naho hafi cyane "inganda zimyambarire" zari akazi kavugana na courier ku mudoko. Nyuma, yatuye mu bubiko mu iduka ry'ishami, aho yahise yiga gutandukanya ibintu byiza kandi byo hejuru byo guhindagurika - buri munsi.

Ku myaka icyenda, amaze kugereza iyi nyigisho muri kaminuza ya Harvard, Cunningham yimukiye i New York, aho yarose gufungura studio-iduka rito ku ntebe zidoda. Amadolari magana atatu yakijijwe bourse akaga naho ari kinini biris, yamuhaye ubutwari - agiye gukodesha icyumba mu kigo cya New York. Mu iduka rya karnegie, aho Kunningham yagiye hamwe n'umucuruzi ukiri muto woherejwe kuri aderesi ... Ibiro by'indwara zo mu mutwe.

Amaherezo, umushinga w'ibishyimbo, umushinga w'itegeko wasanze icyumba gito nticyakorewe muri atike, naho ubukode bwe butangira kwishyura isuku mu nzu yose, mu gihe arimo gutanga isuku mu nzu, akingiwe, akora ku muhanda, hanyuma akorera ku muhanda, hanyuma umugozi. Ubucuruzi ntabwo bwarinze amafaranga yakoreshejwe kubikoresho, ariko yishimiye Cunningham. Asa nkaho ashobora gutakaza umutima na gato. N'igihe Cunningham yakangurirwa mu ngabo, amahirwe masa ntabwo yamusize - umushinga w'itegeko ryakoreye i Paris, aho yashoboraga kwitabira imidende y'ubuntu ku mazu meza.

Agarutse na CanNengham muri Amerika, ingofero ye yaje kunganirwa, yatumiriwe gufatanya Salon yimyambarire yimyambarire, yashyizeho igishushanyo mbonera cya Chanel, cyahawe ibishushanyo mbonera n'ibishushanyo mbonera. Mu myaka ya za 1950, abasura iyi salon bari, urugero, Marilyn Monroe, Catherine Hepburn na Jacqueline Kennedy. Jacqueline nyuma yicwa ryumugabo wa perezida yohereje imyambarire ye itukura kumuyoboro kugirango amwishe mumabara yumukara wirabura kugirango ashyingurwe.

Ubunararibonye hamwe nabakiriya ba Star na Bohemiya basunikiye fagitire mu itangazamakuru - Yatangiye gufotora abantu bambaye imyambarire ku mihanda ya New York kandi bashyiraho amafoto yo kwambara abana n'abagore buri munsi na Chicago. Mubyukuri, iyo ingofero ziva mumyambarire nubucuruzi bwa Cunningham bizahinduka inyungu, ifoto ninkingi bizahinduka ubuzima bwe. Kugeza umwaka wa mirongo inani na munani w'ubuzima, azajya mu mfuruka ya Avenue ya gatanu atwara hafi igare rituranye, afata kamera yiteguye.

Igisubizo cyimirimo ye ntabwo cyari ifoto yumuhanda, nubwo byakozwe byukuri mumuhanda nta myiteguro. Ntabwo ari ifoto yimyambarire, nubwo ibyinshi muri cannesham byari bishishikajwe nimyambarire yo kwigaragaza kwayo. Ntabwo cyari umurimo wa pararatsi, kubera ko umufotozi atashyizeho intego yo gutera ubuzima bwe bwite - yashishikajwe no ku mbaraga zabo kandi kubera ko Cunningham itabonetse n'inyenyeri mbi cyangwa igitero.

Rimwe na rimwe muri Lens ya Canningham yaje kuba abantu basanzwe, abahisi busanzwe - na, imyambaro ya zagaragaye ku mufotozi udasanzwe, uteye ubwoba cyangwa akomeye cyangwa meza. Ariko ibyagezweho kuri Cunningham bifatwa nkibyo yatangiye kurasa inyenyeri mubuzima bwa buri munsi. Rimwe na rimwe, ntiyabonye ko akuraho inyenyeri - Umukinnyi ukomeye wa Kinini Greto Garbo imwe mu mafoto ye ya Cunningham yamenye gusa mu muso w'inyuma, abifashijwemo n'abasomyi. "Natekereje, reba gukata uru rutugu! Nibyiza cyane. Ibyo nabonye byose ni ikoti n'igitugu. " Mu bihe biri imbere, inyenyeri zitandukanye zaje kuri lens ya cunningham: David Bowie, George Charkie, Naomi, Elizabeth Taylor, Elizabeth Taylor, Lisa Mishelli n'abandi benshi.

Ariko bamwe rimwe na rimwe ntibashobora guhagarika uburakari, ni ko rero ari ba nyir'amazu yimyambarire hamwe nimyambarire yimyambarire. Ikigaragara ni uko Cunningham atari umufotozi washizweho gusa, ariko nanone umunyamakuru wihutirwa. Ntiyashoboka kandi ntiyari azi abayobozi b'uburenganzira bwo gukora amakosa. Hashobora kweza muri Pooh yerekanaga ishusho nshya ya chanel no guhimbaza ikigo cyigenga cyo kudoda abantu basanzwe. Kugirango tugere ku bwigenge nk'ubwigenge bwemewe ko ubuzima bwe bwose n'ahantu hose byashyizwe ku rutonde n'umunyamakuru wa Freelance. Niba twaravugaga ubutumire bw'ibyabaye, ntabwo yaremye aho afata. Ati: "Ndagerageza gusa kuyobora umukino w'inyangamugayo, kandi i New York ni ... bidashoboka. Uvugisha ukuri, i New York, birasa n'intambara Don Quixote hamwe n'umuyaga. "

Nibyiza kwerekana ubworoherane ko umwe muri thendise yimyambarire ya Amerika yahisemo kujya kukazi kasanzwe k'umukara, ikoti ry'ubururu, hamwe n '"ibikoresho byonyine" muburyo bwa kamera. Mbere y'urupfu rwa Bill Cunningham yabaga mu nzu nto muri salle ya Carnegie ifite isuku hasi. Nyuma ye, icyegeranyo cyagumye ku mashusho miliyoni eshatu, inyinshi muri zo zitigeze zisohoka. Abashura ba New York bibuka umufotozi w'indashyikirwa wasabye abayobozi guhamagara inkoni y'umuhanda wa gatanu, aho akenshi "bahigwa" ku nkombe za fagitire, izina rye.

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Miss Betty Davis, 1969. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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David Bowie numugore we Iman. Umufotozi Bill CanNed
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Jerry Hall, New York, Arivanta 1980. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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Grace Jones, 1979-1981. Umufotozi Bill CanNed
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Jackie Oh, Indorerezi Intare, 1983. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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Barbara Stjerisand. Umufotozi Bill CanNed
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Ava Cherry na David Bowie, Grammy, 1975. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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Ashford na Simpson, 1970-1980. Umufotozi Bill CanNed
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Ann Ghetty, 1984. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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New York, 1984. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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New York, 1985. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham
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Umuhanda wa Merli, wahuye na Gala, 1988. Umufotozi Bill Cunningham

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