Bill Cuntningham: Jarida Fashion

Anonim

Bill Cuntningham ba titin bane ko mai daukar hoto na zamani, kamar yadda ba Paparazzi bane, amma - parashicallically ba paparazzi ba, amma a bayyane, a kan mafi kyawun halaye na dukkan nau'ikan nau'ikan. Kullum na musamman da kwazo na yau da kullun, yadawo da falsafar entate, ta zama na musamman da kuma tarihin Cunningham ba zai iya mamakin ba.

Farkon so na Fashion Bill ya ji baƙon abu, a cikin Ikilisiya, a farkon 1940s. "Ba zan taba mayar da hankali kan ayyukan cocin cocin Lahadi ba, saboda na riga na mayar da hankali ga huluna na mata," in ji wayawar. Moldval, lissafin zai bude nasa studio game da yin huluna, yayin da mafi kusancin "masana'antar Fashion" ita ce aikin a cikin mai dinki. Bayan haka, ya zaunar da mai shirya mai sayarwa zuwa kantin sayar da sashen, inda ya koyi hanzari ya bambanta kyawawan abubuwa da kuma manyan abubuwa daga matsakaicin-yau da kullun.

A shekara ta goma sha tara, bayan da ya jagoranci karatun a Jami'ar Harvard, Cunningham ta koma New York, inda ya yi mafarkin bude wani karamin ɗakin studio-shago a kan keken dinki. Daloli ɗari uku da suka tsira daga tallafin karatu da kuma ganin mai girma, ya ba shi ƙarfin hali - zai yi shi don yin hayan ɗaki a tsakiyar New York. Daga Carnegie Store, inda Kunningham ya tafi tare da shawara don magance shi, an aika da matasa ɗan kasuwa zuwa adireshin ... ofishin masu hankali.

A ƙarshe, tangling na ganyayyaki, lissafin ya sami karamin ɗakin da ba ya da wuya a tsaftace a cikin gidan, a cikin layi daya, aiki a kan nama, to, mai aiki a kan titin, to, mai aiki. Kasuwanci bai ko da pinched kudaden da aka kashe a kan kayan ba, amma ya yi farin ciki da Cunningham. Da alama ya iya rasa zuciya ɗaya. Ko da lokacin da Cunningham an tattara shi cikin rundunar, sa'a ba ta bar shi ba - Lissafin Bituna ya yi aiki a Paris, inda zai iya halartar wani yanayi na mafi kyawun gidaje mafi kyau.

Bayan dawo da Canningham a Amurka, hat hat kansa ya kai wani sabon salon, wanda ya gayyace shi da ya hada karfi da salon na da, kyauta da Dior zane. A shekarun 1950, baƙi na wannan salon sun kasance, alal misali, Marilyn Monroe, Catherine Hepburny da Jacqueline Kennedy. Jacqueline bayan kisan shugaban kasa ya aiko da Red Sturume nasa zuwa ga canning don ya maida shi cikin makoki mai launin baki don jana'izar.

Kwarewa tare da abokan aiki da abokan ciniki na Bohemian sun fara caji zuwa aikin jarida - ya fara daukar hoto Addini a titunan New York da kuma hotunan sashen Mata na yau da kullun da Chicago Tribune. A zahiri, lokacin da ƙiyayya suka fito daga fashion kuma kasuwancin Cunningham zai zama ba da amfani ba, hoton da kuma shafi zai zama rayuwarsa. Don mutuwa zuwa shekara tamanin da takwas na rayuwa, zai tafi kusurwar Avenue na biyar da kuma hawa kusa da bike da makwabta, riƙe kyamarar a shirye.

Sakamakon aikinsa ba hoton titi ba ne, duk da cewa an yi shi a zahiri a kan titi ba tare da wani shiri ba. Ba hoton hoto bane, ko da yake mafi yawan canjin Canningham na sha'awar yanayi a cikin bayyananniyar ta. Wannan ba aikin Paratsi bane, saboda mai daukar hoto ba shi da burin mamayar rayuwar kansa - yana da sha'awar taurari kuma saboda taurari ba a san su da taurari da rashin gaskiya ba ko kuma starning.

Wani lokaci a cikin canningham ruwan tabarau juya ta zama talakawa mutane, bazuwar wucewa, da kayayyaki na abin da ya bayyana ga mai daukar hoto sabon abu, barna, nagartaccen ko m. Amma wanda ya samu nasarar Cunningham ana la'akari da yadda ya fara harbi taurari a rayuwar yau da kullun. Wasu lokuta, bai ma lura da cewa ya cire tauraron ba - babban kamfanin 'yan wasan kwaikwayo Grore a daya daga cikin hotunan Cunningham ta gano kawai a lambar baya, tare da taimakon masu karatu. "Na yi tunani, kalli yankan wannan kafada! Yana da kyau sosai. Duk abin da na lura akwai mayafi da kafada. " A nan gaba, taurari da yawa sun zo ne ga Cunningham lens: David Boun, George ya yi yaƙi, Elizabeth Taylor, Lisa Mintelli da da yawa.

Amma wanda wani lokacin ba wani lokacin ba zai iya hana fushi ba, don haka wannan shine masu mallakar gidajen gidaje da masu zanen kaya. Gaskiyar ita ce Cunningham bawai mai daukar hoto ce kawai ba, har ma da ɗan jaridar gaggawa. Ba shi da alama kuma bai san ikon hannun dama ga kuskure ba. Zai iya a cikin Pooh da aka tsabtace sabon yanayin Chanel da yabon kamfani mai zaman kanta na dinka. Don cimma irin wannan 'yancin isa ya ba da tabbacin cewa duk rayuwarsa da kuma a kogin canning ta hanyar' yar jarida mai zaman kansa. Idan muna magana ne game da gayyatar ga irin abin da ya faru, ba a shiga nan ba don mu magani. "Ina kokarin yin kokarin yin gaskiya, kuma a cikin sabon york yana da matukar ... kusan ba zai yiwu ba. Gaskiya dai, a cikin New York, yana kama da gwagwarmaya don Quixote tare da iska mai iska, "in ji Canningham a gangaren shekaru.

Zai fi dacewa da irin wannan sauƙin binciken Amurka da aka gwammace su tafi aiki a cikin talakawa 'yan Skuma, kuma tare da "kayan kwalliya kawai" a cikin hanyar kyamara. Kafin mutuwar Bill Cunningham ya rayu a wani karamin gida a cikin Hall Hall tare da wadatar a kasa. Bayan shi, tarin ya kasance kusan hotuna miliyan uku, yawancin waɗanda ba a buga su ba. Babban sabon yorkers a cikin tunawa da fitaccen mai daukar hoto ya nemi hukumomin birni don kiran kusurwar birth Avenue, inda sau da yawa ake farauta "don Frames na Lissafin Lissafin Lissafin Lissafin Lissafin Lissafin Lissafin Bas.

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Pat Cleveland, 1970s. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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New York, 1984. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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New York, 1980s. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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New York, 1980s. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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New York, 1980s. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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New York, 1980s. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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New York, 1979-1981. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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Miss Betty Davis, 1969. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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David Bowie da matarsa ​​Iman. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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Jerry Hall, New York, Circta 1980. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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Grace Jones, 1979-1981. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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Jackie Oh, Abincin Abinci, 1983. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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Barbara streisand. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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Ava ceri da David Bowie, nahammy, 1975. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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1966. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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Ashford da Simpson, 1970-1980. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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Ann Ghetty, 1984. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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New York, 1984. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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New York, 1985. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham
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Na'omi Campbell. Mai daukar hoto Bill Casingham
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Meril Streep, hadu da Gala, 1988. Mai daukar hoto Bill Cunningham

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